SIANKABA, PARADISE ISLANDS ON THE ZAMBEZI

Photo credit: Kafula Mwila

When you leave the tourist capital, drive south as if you are headed for Katima Mulilo border. After about forty minutes, you will see a sign post on the left, it reads, ‘Siankaba Islands’. The left turn will take you on a well maintained gravel road, for about twenty minutes you drive through the most beautiful untamed environment that show cases the immaculate baobab tree. You will drive past a village, after which you stop for change  of mode of transportation to head to the island resort. It is embedded in a wider community, Siankaba, from which it derives its name.

Ten minutes on a speed boat and you arrive to the warmest welcome from the dedicated staff. The resort was constructed not to stand out of its natural environment, yet it provides state of the art international standard hospitability.

Photo credit: Kafula Mwila

The three giant rocks, upon which the resort stands are linked by bridges supported by wooden polls or simply suspended on rope, bringing the wild and adventurous side to your stay.

Upon arrival, a visitor is treated with a hand massage, as if in preparation for the many activities that are lined up. But before you get there and if you are just one of those who just wants to get away from the hassle and bustle of the city, well here is your perfect get away. Let nature take off that fatigue, stress and worries. There is a day spa, which will help to do just that. The beauty of the resort reflects in its simple, ethnic décor.

Photo credit: Kafula Mwila

The rooms, which project over the Zambezi River, give the feeling that you are actually sleeping above the river, listening to the sounds of baboons, monkeys, hippos and crocodiles. Nothing to worry about though, because the sleeping quarters, have been raised high above the water.

The food on the island is excellent; from breakfast to dinner, interjected with high tea, the chef who has been internationally trained does not disappoint.  So whether you are looking toward a quiet time, relaxing or a pure adventure, Siankaba is calling you, beckoning from its tranquility on the Zambezi. In the next article we look at what else the island has to offer.



Photo credit: Kafula Mwila

 

BIKE CULTURE-CHIPATA

From as early as four in the morning you will see them speeding or slowing, you will see them ascending or descending or you will see them carrying passengers or goods. These are the bicycles of Chipata that have now been embedded in the lifestyle and culture of the people of Eastern Province.  The Chipata city council estimates that there are 20,000 registered bicycles but there could be more especially in the rural areas of the district.
But how did this culture begin? How did bicycles take such a strong center stage in the economic and social activities of the Zambian citizens of Eastern Province? The history can be traced back to the early days of the country’s independence when the UNIP government through the First and Second National Development Plans embarked on promoting economic growth in all the provinces. Well, Chipata received its share of the ‘cake’ when a bicycle plant, Luangwa Bicycle factory was opened.  This marked the fate of the bicycle as ‘king’ of Chipata for it has gained the status as a symbol of wealth in addition to being a means of transport. In the early 1970s when the bicycle was introduced it was also seen as a great sense of achievement to acquire one. Chipata with a population of about 452,428 is mainly a rural area with most people (59%) depending on subsistence farming (Central Statistical Office: 2010 Census).

The bicycle has been important for the rural farmer, having the capacity to reach places that do not have passable roads. With time the bicycle business has grown, even after the closure of Luangwa bicycle plant in the 1990s, the two wheeled machine is still imported from as far as China. In fact in modern times the bicycle has evolved to compete as a dependable means public transport against the four wheelers. Some individuals own up to ten bicycles and employ cyclists to run them, transporting people and goods – the charges range from three to ten Zambian Kwacha depending on the distance but the price could be higher for the transportation of heavy and large goods.

But it has not been easy. One cyclist confessed they face a lot of challenges, especially with the coming of the mini-bus in the last four or five years, which initially used to charge the same fare as the bicycle. This saw a reduction in the dependence on the bicycle as a means of transport. The survivors in the business attribute it to the reduced fare of bicycle transport. The other challenge is the lack of infrastructure to support cycling. Apart from the main road that was recently constructed to include a cyclists’ track, the rest of the district does not have such important provisions hence the risks of accidents still remains high.
Nonetheless, cyclists still show a strong commitment to keeping the business afloat, for no matter how you look at it, the bicycle will continue to survive and remain dependable in Chipata and its immediate surrounding because it is inexpensive not only for the customer but for bicycle owners too who bear very low maintenance costs. When you think about it, the bicycle is a cultural symbol too for many people of Chipata, who take pride in its acquisition.

EYE OF THE NEEDLE

It really looks like the actual eye of a needle and for what it is worth, the principle is the same. When threading a needle, people have to squint because it is not quite easy to see though the tiny opening. Just like it is not easy to get thread through the needle's eye, it is not easy to walk through the concrete needle's eye. The principle behind the ‘eye of the needle’ is that of making personal sacrifices in order to become a better person. Borrowing from the 'Sermons on the Mount',  the whole idea was about making the ultimate sacrifice for one to enter the Kingdom of Heaven. A young man came to Jesus Christ and asked, “Teacher, what good thing must I do to obtain eternal life?” Jesus said, “If you want to be perfect, go, sell your possessions and give to the poor, and you will have treasure in heaven. Then come, follow me.” When the young man heard this, he went away in sorrow, because he had great wealth”. “Again I tell you, it is easier for a camel to pass through the eye of a needle than for a rich man to enter the kingdom of God.” MATTHEW 19: 15-20.

 

The ‘eye of the needle’ was a small gate in a city wall that was used by travelers who arrived late, after the main entrance to the city had been shut. If a traveler was a trader and he came with his camel burdened with goods, it was practically impossible for the camel to pass through the extremely narrow passage without offloading all the merchandise. Then, the camel would enter after which packing needed to be done again. It was very tedious and needed much patience. Hence Jesus’ point was it was much easier to make that sacrifice of time and energy than for a rich man to enter the Kingdom of Heaven.

This is the concept behind the tunnel called ‘eye of the needle’ in the eleven rock hewn churches of Lalibela. This particular tunnel is in the second cluster of churches that are collectively known as the New Jerusalem. It connects Biete Emmanuel with the Beite Abba Libanos, which it towards the exit of the churches.

Lalibela, deeper look at the Rock Hewn Church

When you disembark the aircraft at the small airport up north of Ethiopia, the pilot will give you the most welcoming message, which is spoken with great pride. He will finish off by saying,  “Enjoy Lali! This marls the beginning of a journey into a rich history, culture and religion that spans many centuries.

Lalibela, which is located in the Amhara region, is a mountainous town which is about 700 kilometers away from the capital city Addis Ababa; you can either drive there or take a two hour flight to visit the famous Rock Hewn Churches that were constructed in 1100 AD by the Priest King Lalibela. Upon arrival, the town looks isolated, dismal and extremely quiet. The high mountains give the impression that there is no life beyond, but they are only the beginning of a beautiful scenic view of the rural town, as you will see on the twenty-five minute drive from the airport.  Lalibela was named after the Priest King who ruled around the 12^th century. King Roha as he was formerly called was named Lalibela, ‘Honey eater’, by his mother who one day observed that a swarm of bees had surrounded him but did not harm him. She took it as a sign that he would be a future king anointed by God. As a youth King Lalibela visited Jerusalem, the influence of what he observed in the Holy City is what led him to single handedly hewn the churches. Legend has it that the King was assisted by angels, who while the king using simple stone hammer and chisel, curved the churches, the angels helped to move the large broken pieces out. Well whatever mystery surrounds the construction, the churches are remarkable replicas of Biblical times, places and people.
The interior art and décor speaks volumes of the memories that a King had of Jerusalem.

The churches could have been built around 1100AD after Jerusalem was captured. There are three clusters of churches, three symbolising the Holy Trinity; the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit. There are eleven churches, symbolic of twelve Apostles but one, Judas Ischariot, who betrayed Jesus Christ.
The first cluster, the northern group has five churches, each linked by passage ways and underground tunnels. Biete Medhane Alem or House of the Saviour is known as the home of the Lalibela Cross.

Lalibela, Cross of St. George and the Roman Cross

Next to it is St. Maryam or the House of Mary, which is a replica of the Tombs of Adam and the Lord Jesus Christ. 
Biete Medhane and Biete Maryam are the only two monolithic churches in the first cluster. The other three Biete Meskel (House of the Cross), Biete Denagel (House of Virgins) and Biete Golgotha Mikael (House of Golgotha Mikael) are semi-monolithic. Biete Golgotha Mikael is said to be the tomb of King Lalibela and holds extraordinary statues of the twelve Apostles, carefully carved out of rock.  Apparently, women are not allowed to enter Biete Golgotha.

The second cluster only has one church, located on the Western side. St. Giyorgis, prominently protrudes out of the ground show casing a huge St. George’s Cross. The construction replicates Noah’s Ark, symbolised by three interior tiers. The church is not very large but inside holds wooden work that was used to store scrolls in the 12^th century AD.

The third cluster of churches, are on the Eastern side; these are all semi-monolithic apart from Biete Amanuel (House of Emmanuel), which was probably the Holy Chapel. Biete Gabriel and Biete Rafael are adjacent and sometimes called the twin churches but in some cases confused as one church. Biete Qeddus Mercoreus (House of St. Mercoreus or St. Mark), which was likely a former prison and Biete Abba Libanos (House of Abbot Libanos).



Much has been written about the mysteries that surround the eleven rock hewn churches of Lalibela, in northern Ethiopia but one thing is certain, they bear the most outstanding architecture. On the eastern side of each church is the Biete Lehem or Bethlehem meaning House of bread, where special bread is baked for the Holy Communion by a Monk who is designated for that purpose. No one else is allowed entry into the house of bread. There is much to learn and more to explore in the eleven rock churches. In the next articles we will take a tour inside the churches and learn more about the symbolism that has been incorporated into the culture of the people of Lalibela!